Natural, and loving it
More and more are âhappy to be nappyâ
http://www.baltimoresun.com/features/custom/unisun/bal-un.natural02oct02,1,2821846.story?coll=bal-unisun-headlines&ctrack=1&cset=true
By Tanika White
sun reporter
October 2, 2005
In ancient times, Africans braided and cornrowed their hair into intricate patterns, some symbolizing wartime, religious conviction or a betrothal. Other styles let the world know that the wearer was a king or a queen.
In these modern times, more and more African-Americans are realizing that their hairstyles are still broadcasting a message to the world. And, increasingly, more are choosing to send a message of freedom - by deciding to wear their hair in a "natural" style.
Locks. Cornrows. Twists. Braids.
Free of relaxers and other potentially harmful chemicals, those who have opted to go natural say they feel healthier and more at ease with themselves. They believe they have more time, more money. And, most of all, they love the way they look.
"This is your hair in its freest state," says Alycyn Roye, 34, of Pikesville, who decided to stop putting a relaxer in her hair in 2000, and has had dreadlocks for the last three years. "I feel like I'm more natural. I feel uninhibited. I feel really beautiful."
For many in the African-American community, Roye's statement may seem hard to believe. Hair can be beautiful without being chemically straightened? That's not what Grandma - wielding a hot comb and a jar of hair grease - would have had us to believe.
"I think when it has been told to you, and you've absorbed [it], that something is better when it's soft and silky and blows through the wind, then it's hard to dismiss that," says Neal Lester, a professor at Arizona State University who is an expert in African-American literary and cultural studies.
For centuries, Lester says, the dominant culture convinced African-Americans - through books, movies and advertisements - that their hair needed to be something other than what it was. Sleeping Beauty was blond, not brown-haired. Rapunzel's hair flowed like spun silk down her back; it didn't curl up at the roots or spring back when pulled.
"It's hard to erase those things because those start defining the ideals for us," says Lester, who also is a contributor to a traveling cultural exhibit called Hair Stories.
But more and more, African Americans are discarding that hard-to-attain - and even harder to maintain - ideal.
Relaxers and other chemicals, they've found, are drying, damaging and expensive. Some have even found them to be frustrating to use, time-consuming or even harmful to their spirit.
"More people are making more conscientious decisions about natural living, healthy living," says Latavia Ehoize, co-owner of a natural-hair salon on York Road. "It's not a militant, revolutionary type thing like the afros were in the '60s and '70s. This is about 'I'm loving who I am.' Whether it's for spiritual reasons or medical reasons or even emotional reasons, there's something driving them to want to do something different, to do something better."
Ehoize is one of those people.
After wearing her hair relaxed in high school, in what she calls an "attempt to conform," the Western High School graduate decided to cut her hair into a short natural - a low and tight bush. To her, the decision was a long time coming, and felt right.
"I said, 'It's not about what other people think about whether I'm beautiful,' " she says. "So that was it. I said, 'I'm done [with relaxers].' "
That decision was so freeingEhoize wanted to share the feeling with others. Today, she and her godbrother, Carmel Allen - whose long locks have been growing for 13 years - run Nappee by Nature salon, helping clients both male and female, young and old, learn how to make the transition to unprocessed hair.
In their cozy shop, fingers fly. Over here: kneading and soothing temperamental scalps. Over there: stroking, pulling and twisting coarse and kinky tresses into smooth braids, coils, two-strand twists and locks.
These stylists use natural hair dyes, shampoos and moisturizing products. Aloe and shea butter, tea tree oil. Reggae artist Bob Marley plays in the background. Clients sometimes doze off.
At natural-hair salons across the city, the scene is often the same.
At Utopia's Touch on Belair Road, gospel music plays as natural stylist Robert Young transforms Alycyn Roye's free-flowing locks into an artful bun at the back of her head. At Heritage Hair Braiding, just down the street, Danielle Buckson dozes on her day off as two Senegalese hair braiders furiously braid close to 400 "micro-minis" into her hair.
The atmosphere is relaxing. Self-assuring. Those with natural hair say that feeling is totally different than the feeling they got in traditional hair salons. That's because philosophies in most traditional salon are about change: Straighten your curly hair, add color or a hair weave. Be your favorite celebrity or someone in a magazine.
But natural salons are about "bringing out you," Ehoize says, "the beauty within yourself."
Ever since she was 15, social worker Kyra Jennings felt like there was a natural girl inside of her. But her mother, a traditionalist, balked at the idea of cutting her daughter's long hair. So three years ago, in college, and out of her mother's reach, Jennings decided to go for it.
"It's always been me," a dreadlocked Jennings, 23, of Loch Raven, says. "I think natural hair is just beautiful. Afros, twists, however you want to do it. I can't see myself any other way."
Not everyone goes to a salon to get the natural look. In black communities, hair-braiding and cornrowing at home are as much a part of the culture as Sunday dinners.
"I've been braiding hair since I was 12. I started on my doll babies," says East Baltimore's Donna Brown, a 32-year-old mother of six, who braids her four daughters' hair while sitting on the steps outside her house after the girls get home from school. "Now it's easier for me as a mother. It's easier for me to manage, being as their hair is already done [in the morning]."
Brown also saves money this way, but some women with natural hair will admit that going natural doesn't always mean a savings.
Stylists say most locked styles are maintained in a salon every two to three weeks - about the same frequency women with relaxed hair might come in for a shampoo or trim. Depending on the shop, the maintenance can cost anywhere from $40-$75 each visit, which is comparable to expenses for chemically treated hair.
And many braided styles - which can take up to 12 hours in one sitting to create, as opposed to a couple of hours for relaxed hair - can cost $200 or more. Even without the need to come back to a salon for two months, those wearing braids are putting out a lot of money.
Ehoize says that ultimately the decision to go natural is less about saving time and money and more about bringing out the natural woman - or man - inside.
In fact, although most new naturalists are women, many young men also have caught onto the trend and are forgoing the barber's clippers for twists, braids, cornrows or locks.
Kevin Clarke, 19, a student at Morgan State University, began cornrowing his hair seven years ago. At 17, he started locking.
"I like the styles you can do," Clarke says. "And most of the girls I run into, they like it. They're attracted to the dreads."
In fact, many young men say they aren't trying to send any message with their artfully done hair. They just like the way it looks.
"It ain't no culture thing with me," says Tyran Johnson, 17, of East Baltimore, who started locking his hair about nine months ago. "I was getting tired of getting a regular hair cut."
Johnson sounds a lot like many women who, tired of getting a "regular" hair style, opt to go natural. After growing out or cutting out a relaxer, they find that hairstyling is just one less thing to check off on a never-ending to-do list.
Danielle Buckson, 32, loves the easy maintenance of the braid extensions she gets added to her hair every two to three months at Heritage Hair Braiding on Belair Road.
"I have 2-year-old twins," says Buckson, of Cedonia. "It's very hard to keep up with them and work and keep your hair done. These braids give you a style without having to take the time out of your day to do it."
Natural-hair wearers also say they are free to do things their relaxed-sisters wouldn't dream of. Swim. Exercise without hair-anxiety. Walk in the rain.
For them, that kind of freedom is just what poet Ntozake Shange says natural hair really is, in her poem "Roots": "The roots of your hair/ What turns back when you sweat, run, make love, dance, get afraid, get happy: the tell-tale sign of living/" Some Natural Hair Styles
Cornrows - a traditional, unisex, West African style of hair grooming where the hair is tightly braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to produce a continuous, raised row
Dreadlocks (also called "locs") - a natural hairstyle in which the hair is twisted into long, matted or ropelike locks that can be styled in various ways
Braids, Extensions, Individuals - a technique where hair (often artificial) is braided into one's own natural hair to achieve length, volume or a new style
Twists - two strands of hair wrapped around one another all over the head
Coils - a small section of hair is twisted around a comb to create coils in measured patterns
Afro, Bush, Natural - unprocessed hair is combed or picked usually into a neat, rounded style
tanika.white@baltsun
Copyright © 2005, The Baltimore Sun | Get Sun home delivery